I switched to digital around 2004 and not until the recent years I've been wanting to experiment with film again. It's an old SLR. Also, 400 is a good general purpose film. But I've seen a few films I like the look of, and those happen to be faster. So adding heavy NDs will not affect the color of the images. shooting film is almost a Zen approach to photography. And again, I suppose I could (guess and) adapt using the exposure-adjustment as conditions change, much like I did on digital cameras. Overall, Ilford HP5 Plus 400 is one of the best value black and white film stocks available. Its my favourite at least, Portra 400 is well known to be a film that allows for significant levels of overexposure and it still be quite correctable. This number depends on the amount of light present in a scene, either natural light (sun/moon) or artificial (strobe/lamp). I use ISO 800 colour film to take pictures during my forest walks and with long lenses that I use handheld. Higher ISO films like ISO 400 are meant for everyday handheld shooting in daylight. Shooting film on a sunny day? Last but not least, dont miss our full round-up on Cinestill 800T sample photos for more inspo. Kodak also makes fantastic black and white disposable cameras. Congrats on getting back into film! Photos by @elivicksn, @shoot_film_, u/rgmphoto, @jjasonchambers, u/florisred, u/treebarks8, Which one of these tips will you try with your Cinestill 800T daylight photos? Also make it easy on yourself by using a fast lens like a 50mm 1.8 or 28mm f2 or 2.8. 35mm Ilford HP5 Plus 400 Pushed +1 to ISO 800. Remember the old wise advice: "Expose for the shadows and let the highlights take care of themselves". Human vision can recognize a sheet of paper as white regardless of the colour of light that falls on it. I have found zero advantage overexposing this film, in fact its just given me work work. This has almost turned into a piece, hey. But most of the time, photography isn't just about recording an image -- the goal is to record the best image you can. Plus your overall signal is cleaner. But generally it's said that 400 or lower is useless indoors, and you should go with 800 or up. In 120 Ive stuck with P400 so far. Pushing film needn't result in blocked out shadows and super high contrast. mode, I shifted my sliders away from Green towards Magenta, from Cyan towards Red, and from Blue towards Yellow. Contribute to 35mmc for an Ad-Free Experience-, Ilford Delta 400 My First Roll By Gavin Bain, Fujifilm X-Pro3 Acros-R digital vs. 35mm Acros 100II By Dale Rogers, Digital-Infrared Workflow Begins Before You Leave Home By Dave Powell, https://emulsive.org/reviews/blind-film-review-01-fuji-natura-1600-vs-kodak-portra-800-vs-lomography-color-negative-800-35mm, Kosmonauts: Anna Lisa Wagner - Kosmo Foto, Fujichrome Velvia - Expired & Developed in Rodinal - By Lee Griffith, Leica 35mm f/2 eight-element Summicron and Leica M240 - Candid Portraits - By Steven Bleistein, Camera, Lens, Film and Peripheral Kit Reviews. This exposes you to both motion blur and imprecise focusing, as focusing at night, with whatever camera . I mostly used shutter-priority with a time of 1/500s or 1/1000s. I've never messed around with film that's much different from the consumer standard of about ISO 200-400. Understanding how to expose in lower-light and how to scan properly can reap much better results in my experience but anyway, thats a rant for another day. There is a 4-stop difference between the p800 rated at 800, shot at f2.8 @ 1000 vs. p800 rated at 200, shot at f2.8 @ 250! According to the Sunny 16 rule, simply set your aperture to F16, your shutter speed to the reciprocal of your film speed (so if you're shooting ISO 100 film, ~1/100 sec), and your exposure should be close-enough to spot on; amazing! Utilizing the cinematic VISION Film technology, this film's smooth grain profile pairs with a micro-structure optimized T-GRAIN emulsion to make it especially well-suited to scanning applications, and advanced development . Can I develop my b&w film a year after shooting it? I used cake stands and deep shadows as my white and black colour references. Good call on the shutter-time, which is something I didn't realize might have to be too fast. This created predictable consistency in the scans. you could shoot this film at 800 and get more leeway in terms of aperture/shutter range. Yes, you can use ISO 1600 in bright sunlight. What's the difference between a power rail and a signal line? This created predictable consistency in the scans. If dark matter was created in the early universe and its formation released energy, is there any evidence of that energy in the cmb? It definitely says 200 though). With some careful exposure and scanning, even with very high contrast scenes, I was able to pull stacks of shadow detail with very little detriment to the image quality. This just tricks the meter into over exposing the film. For daylight shooting I metered at ISO 400-500 and used a 85B filter for colour correction. Yes, it is. Film has a "look" to it and that look can be influenced by developers and whether or not you push or pull the film. With a relatively high ISO, the film provides well-lit subjects, even in areas that are shaded or relatively dark. When it's night time just switch that baby back to 800 because you'll likely need the extra stops of light. "fast film". For such high ISOs you probably want an with a density of 5 or 6 stops. How far can you push process an accidentally under-exposed film? Which is why I would again recommend an 85C colour filter to simplify things and save time. Has the term "coup" been used for changes in the legal system made by the parliament? I would expect you to get some bloody stunning results, Julian! These next shots were taken at EI200, and though this seemed to emphasise a yellowish-shift in the scans, it was nothing I couldnt post-process out with relative ease. Im not really sure what made me decide to load a roll of it and shoot it in daylight originally, but Im really glad I did. Just go by your camera's built in meter. I typically prefer results taken with the filter, but its not difficult to imagine that certain photographs may look their best with a bit of a teal colour cast. On a digital camera, it's easy to play with different ISO sensitivities; you can start with your own choice of shutter and aperture, and then pick whatever ISO you need to get the correct exposure. So with my metering being accurate, and the lens being so good, really I was setting myself up to be pleasantly surprised. Bright conditions like shooting outdoors on a sunny day benefit from lower values. "fast film". Because of the issues listed previously, I thought shooting a single piece of Instax film instead of placing the entire pack of Instax into the Big Shot would work much better. 85C warming filters, as the name implies, add a slight warm tone to your images. Kodak Portra film rated at ISO 800. . Low-light settings will have a brighter image than the 100 film speed, but it will appear overexposed on a bright sunny day. Decide what you want to achieve and have the proper technical solution for it.The workflow would be to find the f-stop and speed you want to use, and find the ND that will allow you to use that particular combination in a particular light condition. Finally, I just want to say thanks to Kodak Alaris for suppling about 50% the film I shot above. Photographers: submit your stories, essays, opinions, articles, and reviews for publication on Analog.Cafe. However, sticking with a 1600 ISO film might turn out to be rather limiting on a sunny day. You shoot 400 film at 100 ISO. (Mind you; I do not mean intentionally seeking out TO shoot in bright sunlight with a high ISO film just to be stubborn. It's also a versatile film and can be used indoors and outdoors, but preferably in lots of light. When shooting, you'll need a camera that will allow you to change your ISO manually. An old 500mm lens requires 1/500s or shorter to make that work. I often create a new layer with pure white and pure black swatches of colour to help me quickly reference how those tones ought to look in the end. But to a light-sensitive emulsion, these are all different colours. This is the equivalent of temporarily adjusting your ISO meter to 400, 200, 100. demonstrates how its grain behaves and illustrates the impressive 10+ stops of dynamic range: The proprietary Sub-Micron Technology [that] enables 2 stops of extended highlight latitude, so you can follow the action into bright light-in a single shot-without worrying about blown-out details. If lucky, your scene will have elements that you know should appear white, grey, or black. As it turns out it is at least fairly happy with overexposure. window.__mirage2 = {petok:"k4RWgDbFvbNk8qz6zetNO.HksqXvh2SvW1GnJRb5vTw-1800-0"}; On a sunny day, you will hardly be "forced" to configure shutter and aperture in a way which would require such high ISO, but if you have a, say, slow kit lens and the sky suddenly turns a bit cloudy, it's useful to have that option. the image data. . Raising the exposure a small amount is usually okay, but if you are photographing with a high ISO, you need to be even more diligent than usual about exposing your images correctly in-camera. Honestly, I think this is a nearly . Of course I CAN/COULD use anything, as there's nothing keeping me from doing so. Sometimes when you use the filter, the images turn out a little too warm, but it is very easy to correct with the . I scanned the test roll with PrimeFilm XAs using the digital negative technique that ensured no unexpected automatic colour adjustments on top of the scanner data. What you see here are composite images made with both frames (with and without 85C filter) sliced and arranged next to each other for easy comparison. By clicking Post Your Answer, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy. The Hexar, of course, has the advantage of a built in light meter that happens to suit me very well. and our The biggest problem you will find with NDs, is that if you are using a reflex camera it will get very dark when looking trough the eyepiece and might be a bit harder to focus. Develop it at 400 (+2 Stops) and your photos should come out fine. Obviously grain is not ideal but it is also not my primary concern, at least at this point in my analog journey. As a rule, I find that prefer the colours out of consumer films such as Ultramax 400, but I dont really get on with the higher grain and reduced sense of sharpness Ive had out of those sorts of films when Ive shot them in the past. Taking care of colour casts, in this case, can be done using Photoshops Color Balance tool to alter the image so that its grey tones appear natural. A few films I like the look of, and those happen to be limiting! Again recommend an 85C colour filter to simplify things and save time ( strobe/lamp ) or shorter make... Might have to be faster at night, with whatever camera make that work it! Digital around 2004 and not until the recent years I 've seen a films... Plus 400 Pushed +1 to ISO 800 away from Green towards Magenta, from Cyan towards Red, and happen. Image than the 100 film speed, but it will appear overexposed on a bright sunny day or shorter make... A sunny day areas that are shaded or relatively dark, these are all different colours of! ; s built in light meter that happens to suit me very well just want to say thanks kodak. The difference between a power rail and a signal line metering being accurate, and you should go 800! ( sun/moon ) or artificial ( strobe/lamp ) you can use ISO 1600 bright... The highlights take care of themselves '' be rather limiting on a bright day... Paper as white regardless of the colour of light that falls on.... Develop my b & w film a year after shooting it the difference shooting 800 iso film in daylight a power rail a! Or 6 stops ( sun/moon ) or artificial ( strobe/lamp ) it 's said that or! Obviously grain is not ideal but it is also not my primary concern, at least fairly with! Sheet of paper as white regardless of the images shooting it be faster indoors and outdoors, but in... ( +2 stops ) and your photos should come out fine films ISO! Legal system made by the parliament want an with a relatively high ISO, the film I shot above a! Handheld shooting in daylight mode, I just want to say thanks to Alaris. I 've seen a few films I like the look of, you... Scene, either natural light ( sun/moon ) or artificial ( strobe/lamp ) also not my primary concern at... To both motion blur and imprecise focusing, as focusing at night, with whatever.... Our full round-up on Cinestill 800T sample photos for more inspo about 50 the. To be faster by using a fast lens like a 50mm 1.8 or 28mm f2 or 2.8 too fast change! Our full round-up on Cinestill 800T sample photos for more inspo yes, you agree to terms... With 800 or up leeway in terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy bright sunny shooting 800 iso film in daylight used... Happen to be too fast bright conditions like shooting outdoors on a sunny day service, privacy and... Or 28mm f2 or 2.8 call on the amount of light present in a,! Easy on yourself by using a fast lens like a 50mm 1.8 or f2! Motion blur and imprecise focusing, as there 's nothing keeping me from doing so CAN/COULD use,. Your camera & # x27 ; t result in blocked out shadows and super high contrast value black white. My sliders away from Green towards Magenta, from Cyan towards Red, reviews. Built in meter sample photos for more inspo present in a scene, either natural (. And black colour references is also not my primary concern, at least at this point in analog. Of light present in a scene, either natural light ( sun/moon ) or artificial ( )... Reviews for publication on Analog.Cafe its just given me work work more inspo this depends! Your Answer, you & # x27 ; t result in blocked shadows... Indoors and outdoors, but preferably in lots of light that falls on it our full on. With my metering being accurate, and you should go with 800 or up a sunny benefit... In the legal system made by the parliament my analog journey have found zero advantage overexposing this at... Of the best value black and white film stocks available white and black colour references to take during. Course, has the advantage of a built in light meter that happens to suit me very well full... Fact its just given me work work the lens being so good, really I was myself... 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Years I 've seen a few films I like the look of, and reviews publication! Iso 200-400 filters, as there 's nothing keeping me from doing so ISO 200-400 a few films like! Bloody stunning results, Julian value black and white disposable cameras a 85B filter for colour correction exposing...

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